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Wednesday, April 20, 2016

[appliance-repair] Digest Number 2472

1 Message

Digest #2472
1a
Re: Flipped Electrical Breaker by "John Clinard" john_clinard

Message

Tue Apr 19, 2016 9:35 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

"John Clinard" john_clinard

I knew you folks would have some answers. The box could be rather old
and is outdoors, though covered by a patio roof. If this happens a
couple more time, I'll just go ahead and replace it. Thanks again for
your help. I'm sure glad I found this group.

John

rhkramer@gmail.com [appliance-repair] wrote:
> I assume a few things:
>
> * you mean tripped (not trying to be pedantic), but there are (on most
> (home) breakers, two off positions, one that is all the way in one direction
> which is used when a person intentionally turns the breaker off, and one in-
> between the on and off positions which is reached when the breaker trips due to
> an electrical fault.
> * no one else was home who might have switched the breaker to off
>
> In general, a tripped breaker is due to an electrical problem. Most home
> breakers can trip for either of two reasons:
>
> * a short circuit, which causes a very high amperage fault, which trips the
> breaker very quickly, ideally on the order of milliseconds
> * a circuit overload meaning the combination of things turned on uses more
> current than the rating of the breaker. Also, this typically occurs much
> slower than a short circuit fault, and the time to trip varies depending on
> how big the overload is. For example, if you have a circuit breaker rated at
> 15 amps and you have a load of 16 amps on the breaker, it may take 5 to 60
> seconds to trip, if you have a load of 20 amps on the breaker, maybe it will
> trip in one second (just guesses). And really, there is enough variation in
> breakers that the time to trip will vary between breakers.
>
> Oh, almost forgot, breakers for electrical outlets in damp or potentially wet
> areas, like bathrooms, outdoors, and, iiuc, now kitchens need to be protected
> by a GFC device--either in the breaker or as special outlets with a built in
> GFC device--those will have a button on them to reset them after a fault.
> These are designed to trip very quickly on very low current, when the breaker
> "thinks" that the low current might be going through a person. They do this
> in a little bit of an unexpected way--they (essentially) compare the current
> going in on one wire to the current going out on the other wire, and if they
> are different by a small amount of current, the breaker is tripped--in essence,
> it doesn't know where that missing current is going, but on the chance that it
> is going through a person, it trips the breaker just in case.
>
> Unfortunately, that type of breaker is more subject to false trips--if you
> have a device like a motor plugged into such an outlet, occasionally it may
> trip by mistake. (Moreso if the motor has a slight problem.)
>
> The other thing is that breakers can go bad as they age. A breaker is old, or
> has tripped many times may have parts that weaken and the breaker now trips
> sooner than normally expected, and/or at a lower current.
>
> So, I hope I've given you enough information to start looking for your
> problem. One thing (among many) that comes to mind--do you have anything that
> comes on automatically while you're not home, either based on a timer, a
> photoswitch, a motion detector, or something like that?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, April 16, 2016 11:51:34 PM John Clinard john.clinard@gmail.com
> [appliance-repair] wrote:
>
>> This isn't a question about an appliance, but I've found you folks to be
>> quite knowledgeable, so I thought some of you might have some ideas. I
>> have a breaker for my kitchen lights and washing machine and in the last
>> two weeks it has flipped twice. The first time, I came home from work
>> found no lights in the kitchen and the flipped breaker. No one was home
>> all day and everything was shut off that time. A week later, the lights
>> were on and the drier was running and the lights just quit. The drier
>> stayed running, I assume, because it is 220W with its own breaker. Any
>> ideas? Thanks for your help.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>> Posted by: John Clinard <john.clinard@gmail.com>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> All advice on repairs to microwave ovens should only be undertaken by
>> qualified service personnel. To unsubscribe please send a mail to the
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>>
>> Yahoo Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: rhkramer@gmail.com
> ------------------------------------
>
> All advice on repairs to microwave ovens should only be undertaken by qualified service personnel.
> To unsubscribe please send a mail to the following address from the account you recieve this message.
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> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>

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